walking western isles
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walking western isles, hotel, accommodation, cuisine, weddings, functions, seafood, uist, carinish, lochmaddy, ferries, ornithology, fishing, lewis, harris, benbecula, rspb, archaeology, neolithic, archaeology, skye, walking western isles
John o'Groats' appeal is more metaphysical than material. Promoted as the mainland's northernmost point, it is about 874mi (1407km) as the crow flies from the extreme southwest tip at Land's End in Cornwall (England). Every year, hundreds of tourists make the long trip north to visit the famous town. Some even make the epic 'end-to-end' journey between Land's End and John o'Groats - more than 1000mi (1600km) of driving, cycling or walking. An impressive achievement, particularly for those who opt for the latter mode of transport!
However, for the purist, the honour of most northerly point actually goes to Dunnet Head, about 11mi (18km) west of the village, and marked by a lighthouse that dates from 1832. While in the area, you should also make the short trip to Duncansby Head, home to flocks of seabirds at the start of summer. A path leads to Duncansby Stacks, spectacular natural rock formations soaring over 196ft (60m) above the sea. There are a series of narrow inlets and deep coves on this wonderful stretch of coast. The village of John o'Groats, named after Dutch trader Jan de Groot, also provides a ferry link to Orkney. The Dutchman started the first ferry route from here to the islands with the blessing of King James IV in 1496.
Rock is the overwhelming feature of the Harris landscape - there's plenty of water too, in freshwater and sea lochs - but it's the surreal, glaciated moonscapes that distinguish Harris from the other islands. Like the rest of the Western Isles (there are 550 in total, 10 of which are inhabited), Harris has an unhurried, almost old-world feel. This is largely due to the region being the Scottish stronghold of the Free Church, whose deep attachment to the Bible requires the observance of Sunday as a day of rest and devotion. Consequently, there are no public transport services, shops and petrol stations are closed, and only a handful of hotels provide meals for nonresidents. You'll see signs prohibiting sport and even the use of children's playgrounds.
Harris is also famous for Harris Tweed, high-quality woollen cloth, some still hand-woven in islanders' homes. The weaving of the tweed originated on the Amhuinnsuidhe Castle estate. The castle was built in 1867 by the Scottish architect David Bryce for the Earl of Dunmore, and it was the Dowager Countess who encouraged the production of the local tweed.
The focus of the area known as the Cairngorms is Britain's second-highest mountain, Ben Macdui (4293ft/1309m), and Cairn Gorm (4083ft/1245m) itself. The mountains dominate a vast and wild plateau, separated from neighbouring massifs by the deep gash of the Lairig Ghru pass in the west and the Lairig an Laoigh in the east. The climate is the closest thing in Britain to arctic conditions, and consequently the area is of outstanding ecological importance - indeed, the Cairngorms will become Scotland's second national park in 2003. Mountain hares, golden plovers and dotterels may be seen on the higher ground; siskins, crested tits and redpolls live in the more sheltered areas and native pine woodlands on the lower slopes. Red and roe deer are widespread and you may even see reindeer grazing high up. In winter, the area is one of Scotland's premier mountaineering and ice-climbing destinations.